Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com 30 January, 2017
Lumen_esce by Nomenclature (Frank Voelkl 2017)
Violet gets a fantastic 21st century upgrade in Nomenclature’s new Lumen_Esce which is being being released next month.
The central conceit of Lumen_esce is the featured aromachemical “Violettyne”, the sin-qua-non violet-presenting molecule created and patented by Firmenich 17 years ago.
Our Editor Michelyn Asked perfumer Frank Voelkl about the Violettyne molecule, and he explained… “The molecule I’m using for Lumen_esce is in fact very different from Ionones. The ionones best represent the floral part of the Violet and are also used in my fragrance.But the Violettyne is a product that is more representative of the Violet leaves and to me is sort of laser sharp and almost fluorescent in its expression.”
Nomenclature (no•men•cla•ture, ˈnōmənˌklāCHər, noun, def: the devising or choosing of names for things, especially in a science or other discipline. The body or system of names in a particular field. Etymology: from Latin nomenclatura “a calling by name, list of names,” derived from nomen “name” and calatus, past participle of calare “to call”
The mission statement of Nomenclature is simply this:
“Nomenclature celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules—so exclusive that some, known as “captives,” are zealously guarded by fragrance companies. Through a series of sheer and streamlined compositions, Nomenclature explores their complex facets and their potential for protagonism. Demonstrating that these man-made hybrids of poetry and science have a beauty all their own. The beauty of modernity.”
Perfumer Frank Voelkl (of Le Labo and Ermenegildo Zegna “Essenze” fame) and conceptualists Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero created the company in 2015, and continue to shatter and re-invent traditional perceptions of classical perfumery. For 2017 they have turned their sights on the violet note and have given it a very contemporary vibe.
Now many will see the word “violet” and run for the hills with thoughts of perfumed fusty old Aunties or tweenager debutantes, the heretofore traditional violet-centric perfume wearers, but trust Nomenclature to modernize violet perfume and plant it solidly in the 21st century and beyond.
In other words, “Lumen_esce is NOT your Grandma’s perfume”. This is a violet that belongs in the now, a perfume that Jane Jetson might use before sitting down for a manicure, drinks, and soap operas with her housekeeper Rosie the Robot. Perfect for a 25th Century girls nite-in, Lumen_esce is a space-age violet that shines and glows with a futuristic inner neon light and knife-sharp edges.
Lumen_esce, (named for the measure of light; the lumen) is many things, but at its heart is a powdery violet with a solidly metallic feel, energized by an electrifying bouquet of florals and magnetized by a base of Patchouli-Prisma, a non-traditional natural note that has been turned upside down, distilled, disassembled and put back together to provide an extra jet-fuel strength blast of woodiness.
Lumen_esce is a scent that breaks barriers, glass ceilings, and any other preconceived notions of what a violet based perfume will be. Lumen_esce is to perfume what streaming movies are to those older hot-tub sized satellite TV dishes, the first glimpse of what will be, the new normal and a vision of the future.
Presented in Nomenclature’s signature Chemistry beaker shaped bottle, Lumen_esce is a perfume that commands respect and takes no prisoners be it in a boardroom, bedroom, or laboratory.
Notes: Violettyne, violet leaves, freesia, jasmin-sambac, bergamot, patchouli-prisma.
Karl and Carlos were the recipients of CaFleureBon’s Best of Scent: 2015 for Creative Direction.
Available mid-February, 2017
Disclaimer: I received my sample from Nomenclature. Many thanks! . My opinions are my own.