New Natural Perfume Review: Esscentual Alchemy Poir Indiscrète (Amanda Feeley, Inspired by Nava Brahe) 2017+ Spring Delight Draw

Originally published on  16 April, 2017


Of all the fresh fruit I love, a ripe and juicy pear would be near the top of the list. I often scoffed at the idea of the humble apple being the fruit that Eve was tempted with on the tree of knowledge. Apples are just not that sexy or mesmerizing albeit delicious. Nope, for my money it would be a fig with its notorious center resembling the feminine genitalia, or a pear bursting with honey-tinged juice and when perfectly ripe, sweet enough to have NON-diabetics reaching for the insulin. Every year my spouse and I receive a box of Royal Riviera & Verano Pears from the now-legendary Harry & David in Oregon, and geeky though it may be it remains one of the highlights of our holiday season. These, elixir-sweet pears are so juicy and fine, they need to be eaten with a spoon! They’re just that good!

So when writer and former perfume reviewer Nava Brahe approached perfumer Amanda Feeley of Esscentual Alchemy with the idea of a pear-centric perfume, it took the next two years of dabbling and modifications to create a scent that was exactly what Nava had suggested. The idea for the perfume that Nava suggested to Amanda was this… “What is it about the pear that intrigues us? It has an appearance, texture and taste unlike anything else in nature, and it is good for us. My love affair with pears started in childhood, with candy-sweet canned fruit cocktail. When I ate it, I would pick out the chunks of pear and pieces of cherries, saving them for last. As my palate became more sophisticated, I discovered that fresh pears were an enjoyable snack, as well as the perfect accompaniment to cheese. Then, of course, there is the inevitable pairing of pears with pastry, which makes for the most delectable tart”. I can’t pinpoint when exactly I decided I wanted to smell of pears, but as my perfume tastes evolved over the years, I found pear notes to be quite appealing, especially when mixed with white florals and maybe a touch of sweetness like vanilla or tonka bean. Pears are often a secondary fruity note in many commercial fragrances, but rarely are they the star of the composition. My goal is to have the pear be center stage with supporting notes that will enhance and compliment its juicy succulence without overwhelming the intrinsic characteristics of the fruit.” -Nava Brahe 2014

Two-plus years later, Poir Indescrète is ready for its official release on April 25th 2017, and it’s a stunner! As a perfumer Amanda Feeley works slowly and methodically, and the results are quite often complex and unforgettable. Her creations include scents that will always be in my collection (Come To Me), Little Black Dress created for CaFleurebon’s First Anniversary, and the two gorgeous perfumes created for the Traveling Unguetarium Project; Helena based on a two thousand year old Roman recipe for scented oil, and its contemporary version Helena II).

For Poir Indescrète Amanda has created an extraordinary pear accord that smells as if you have just bitten into the very best pear ever, the sweet, exotic scent rising up to your nose, slightly dusty and familiar yet so much more! The juice, like true nectar of the gods runs down your chin and you lean over quickly so the juice lands on the ground and not on your shirt. Absolutely delectable.

That pear accord is the very first note that hits you upon application, and at the top it’s at its most lush and gorgeous. When the blood orange and bergamot come forward and the florals are in play, this is akin to a joyous spring perfume, frothy and bubbly and not unlike a vintage Arpege, Chanel or Lanvin. It’s downright sunny. The honey and tea notes provide an astonishing sense of realness that will have you believing that, as bees in honey drown, you will be a magnet for anything or anyone who comes close, and remain intoxicated by your scent cloud.

Notes: Rose Geranium, Blood Orange, Bergamot, Pear Accord, Heliotrope accord, Honeysuckle, Honey, Jasmine Tea, Mimosa, Ylang-ylang, Green Tea, Musks, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

Disclosure: Many thanks to Esscentual Alchemy and Amanda Feeley for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own.

-Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Poir Indescrète Amanda Feeley Esscentual Alchemy

Thanks to Esscentual Alchemy and Amanda Feeley, we have three 1 ml pre-release sample vials of Poir Indescrète for three registered readers Worldwide. Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you were drawn to in Robert’s review, if you like pear notes or enjoy pears and where you live. Draw closes 4/19/2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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