from Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies. SO interesting……
A short essay, but terrific…..
from Portia’s Australian Perfume Junkies. SO interesting……
A short essay, but terrific…..
Ever since 2014, when Andy Tauer released Cologne de Magrheb, I have been patiently waiting for a new riff on the time honored classic. I was thrilled and delighted to learn of his new release L’Eau (truth to be told I was actually quivering with anticipation when I opened the box).
I often feel that classic colognes get a bit shortchanged in the fragrance community in favor of darker and deeper scents rife with incense, patchouli, and the ever ubiquitous oudh. Colognes seem to be thought of as “lesser” compositions, almost like a poor relation, something not to be taken too seriously, but just for “fun”.
For me nothing could be further from the truth. In the hands of a master perfumer like Andy Tauer, a bright and fizzy Eau De Cologne-style perfume done extremely well, can lift my mood and vanquish the dark clouds on any gloomy day, and make a sunny day that much better. Think of all the wonderful colognes from the bigger houses, Chanel, Guerlain, Dior, or Caron for example. The bite of the citrus, the uplifting florals, and the fresh air supplied from a great clean musk? Yes please! I love them all. Andy Tauer’s L’Eau takes the very best aspects of fine cologne and interprets them as an Eau de Parfum in a classic Tauer way, with his signature deep and well rounded “Tauerade” vibe and over-the-top longevity. Andy Tauer is a perfumer who is never afraid to push the envelope, he has a signature style and Tauer Perfumes offers the rare combination of outstanding scents at reasonable prices.
Inspired by the scent of a blooming lemon tree on Mr. Tauers’ Zurich veranda, L’Eau is a beautiful and uplifting unisex perfume that manages to deconstruct a lemon tree from its dew-kissed blossoms down to its cool and dark hidden roots. It also happens to be one of the greatest blind buys I’ve made in a very long time.
Opening with the sharp and slightly bitter whip-crack sting of fresh lemon and bergamot and softened by the sweet floral notes of lemon blossom and the slight fusty scent of iris, this fresh-as-springtime scent is as cooling and mellow as a warm zephyr whispering against your skin and ruffling your hair. The wood notes bring you into the stems and stalks of the lemon tree, right into the trunk and further down into the loamy soil with its’ ambergris/earthy, primordial and slightly metallic smell. This is a bottle I would, and will reach for at the end of a sunny day-off spent lying in the sun, then meandering through the house in a languorous stupor from the heat of the day, and looking forward to a cooling, cleansing, and refreshing shower. Fresh out of the bath, in sparkling clean clothes slightly redolent of laundry powder and sunlight, I will give myself some generous lashings of L’Eau with its’ bright and revivifying sweet citrus blast, and step out into a warm summers’ night. On second thought, why wait? I think I’ll just go re-apply right now. Notes: Bergamot, lemon, orange oil, lemon blossom, iris, musk, woods, ambergris
Disclosure: The perfume is my personal bottle and the opinions are my own.
–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor
-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Thanks to Twisted Lily, we have 3 samples of L’Eau for 3 winners in the USA. Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review, and your favorite cologne or Tauer Perfume. Draw closes 5/25/2017
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon and @twistedlily360
You must be registered to win. We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
The biggest surprise out of an auction “lot” I bought the othe day, is this bottle! (Marked #2)
At first I thought it might be a second smaller Prince Matchiabelli, but it turns out to be a vintage Canadian company called Delager. They used to make these really sweet foil-wrapped bath cubes with lovely floral illustrations, about the size of a chocolate. I used to give them to my mom for Mother’s Day when I was a kid. Do you remember them? They were at every drugstore and Five and Dime.
This perfume that they made is called “Royal Dove”, and it is freaking GORGEOUS!
Like a drugstore riff on a Guerlain; 1/2 way between L’Instant and L’Heure Bleue. Vintage skanky opening and a stunning semi-sweet drydown! Lasts a really long time. Still lots on ebay for under $20.
I’m SO impressed. Wow. Just….. wow!😍
Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com, 20 May 2017
New Perfume Review: Kyse Perfumes Terreno Dolce and Bois de Santal et Terre (Terri Bozzo) 2017+ All-Weather Gourmand Fragrance Draw
May 20, 2017
Terri Bozzo (the 120th American perfumer featured in CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery series) initially burst onto the indie perfume scene four years ago on Facebook with a fantastic gourmand called Sucre Et Fleurs and people took notice. Her small California home-based company, (then called Perfumes by Terri) became an instant hit with an almost cult-like status. After the debut and success of Sucre Et Fleurs in 2014, new scents with a gourmand flair followed and Terri rebranded her perfumes as Kyse Perfumes (Kyse, pronounced like “rice” is a combination of her two sons names, Kyle and Sean). Terri’s new Eau De Parfums for 2017 are definitely worth exploring. There are two scents in the line that I find particularly noteworthy and well-suited during the crazy weather that has half the country melting under a heatwave while the rest of us are still reaching for our sweaters are woody and fresh, with Terri’s signature gourmand vibe that will work well whatever the temperature may be.
Terreno Dolce (Sweet earth) is best described as a woody gourmand chypre. Terreno Dolce was the first Kyse Perfumes I tried, and has olfactive picnic of the senses written all over it! Opening with a blast of fresh cedar overlaid by brown sugar, the scent brings to mind cedar planks used for grilling, the vetiver and moss notes keep it earthy and grounded while the brown sugar sweetens, enhances, and delights! This combination of fresh woody and earthy scents mixed with sweet might seem odd to you at first but it works exceedingly well. This is indeed a sweet earth scent, and one that you would reach for often. The perfect descriptor would be “addictive”. Notes: Vetiver, earthy notes, oakmoss, immortelle, woody notes and brown sugar
Bois de Santal et Terre (Sandalwood and Earth) is the most contemplative of the perfumes, the crystal clear bright day right after the storm. It is quiet and haunting, and allows you to slow down the endless machinations of a busy mind and be totally present. Yes it has its gourmand facets, but it is the sandalwood and wheat that bring shimmering beauty and grace to this scent. I wore it right before bedtime, and it seriously helped to put me in the zone, allowing for a deep and restful night’s sleep. The boletus (mushroom) and earthy notes keep it well-grounded with an extraordinary feeling of zen meditation. It is the sigh of relief and most inward-seeking of the two, more of a skin-scent, but one that you will be happy to keep to yourself and those who you want to be close to. Notes: Sandalwood, cedar, wheat, boletus edulis, cacao and earthy notes.
Many Thanks to Kyse Perfumes for the samples. Opinions are my own.
–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor
–Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief who lives in NYC where it was 90 degrees yesterday and 60 degrees today.
Thanks to Kyse Perfumes we have a draw for a registered reader in the USA or Canada for a 30ml bottle of your choice Bois de Santal et Terre OR Terreno Dolce Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s reviews, which you would choose should you win, if you enjoy perfumes with a gourmand vibe, and where you live. Draw closes 5/23/2017
follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @fragrantwanderer and @terribozzo
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com 19 May, 2017
New Perfume Review: Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina (Sylvaine Delacourte) 2016 + Neo-Classicism Draw
May 17, 2017
Late last autumn, fragrance lovers were delighted to discover the launch of a new range of five perfumes centered around musk. They were created by industry superstar Sylvaine Delacourte whom Master Perfumer (and recipient of the prestigious Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres) Maurice Roucel described as “One of the best creative directors I have ever worked with…”(in his interview with our Editor-in-Chief, Michelyn Camen). All the fragrances were beautiful but I was especially drawn to Florentina, a gorgeous tribute to a scent memory from Sylvaine’s childhood.
Before creating her own line, Mme. Delacourte was highly regarded for her work as the Director Of Fragrance Evaluation and Development with the venerable Parisian Maison Guerlain (alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain and Thierry Wasser), and had a crucial role in bringing us some of the most iconic perfumes of the past ten years, to wit; Insolence (and flankers), Acqua Allegoria Figue-Iris, L’Instant Magic, Quand Vient La Pluie, Guerlain Homme, and so many others.
George Lawrence Bulleid – At the Fountain©
All of the five new perfumes released in the new collection are wonderful, but Florentina, a stunning powdery iris-musk, was the one that absolutely swept me off my feet.
Girl with Laurel Headband. George Lawrence Bulleid (English,1858-1933)
Iris Florentina is a sub-species of iris that grows in the countryside surrounding Florence Italy, and its form is celebrated all around Florence with a Fleur-De-Lys style symbol on the city flag and buildings among others. The symbol has been in existence since Florence was founded in 59 BC by the Roman Empire. To honor the Roman goddess Flora, the new city was named after both its founder Florinus da Cellino, and the word Florentia (Latin for flowering).
George Lawrence Bulleid – Before the Bath
Florentina is Mme. Delacourte’s fragrant tribute to the scent of baby powder from her youth in northern France, and a stunning tribute it is. The idea of scent-memory has always been fascinating to me, that ability of certain scents to transport one back in time so throughly. Recently I asked Sylvaine about her own childhood scent-memories which provide the basis of this fantastic perfume:“Perfume is the most intense form of memory. I grew up in the north of France, near Lille, and Florentina is the result of my personal memories that I had from seven years of age and beyond. The face powder of my mother, the iris smell, the exquisite smell of the violet that my father gave me each week when it was the season, the smell of almond blended with vanilla from the pancakes cooked by my grandmother.
Robert’s Borotalco talcum Vintage ad
To provide tension to the fragrance, I chose vetiver which has a hazelnut smell, in honor of a hazelnut tree which was in our garden. The carnation note I think came from Youth Dew, my mothers’ perfume of choice. Then the smell of babies talcum powder is also important for me, it is the starting point of this creation. I love all the smells of talc, especially the Robert’s Borotalco talcum that comes from Italy.” (Note: Roberts Borotalco is still widely available online.) -Sylvaine Delacourte
Carina by George Lawrence Bulleid
All of these memories coalesce into a singular perfume that is beautifully blended using the finest ingredients, and we are gifted with a floral and Iris scent with touches of gourmand and a terrific soft musk base. The opening is a bright and fluffy almond note that is reminiscent of opening the door to a favorite bakery or patisserie, the steamy warm air redolent of sweet baking almond biscuits. The musk in the background adds the “fluffy” feeling, freshened by the heliotrope, iris, and violet.
George Lawrence Bulleid A Moment’s Rest
The orange blossom lends an orange flower water baking note while the carnation is merely alluded to but present none the less; the vetiver is also amplified which surrounds the scent with the freshness of a garden on a beautiful afternoon. This is a very easy scent to wear for both women and men alike, and it wears very well both in cold weather and warm. When I first tried Florentina last November, I remember it as a perfect perfume for the holidays, and now in warmer weather the florals are more prominent, making it extremely accessible as a summer scent.
Notes: Cloves, benzoin, bergamot, iris, lavender, violet, carnation, vetiver, almond, orange blossom, vanilla, white musk, and heliotrope.
Disclosure: Many thanks to Sylvaine Delacourte for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own.
–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor
George Lawrence Bulleid Tutt’Art@ Girl With a Lute
-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief I used the art of George Bulleid, a Victorian painter best known for his classical style to convey Mme. Delacourte’s fragrances.
Editor’s Note: I named Sylvaine Delacourte’s new House as the recipient of CaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2016-Michelyn
Thanks to the generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte, we have a 100 ml. Bottle of Florentina for one registered reader In the EU, USA, and Canada
or if you would like the Musc discovery kit that includes Dovana, Florentina, Smerlado, Lilyang (Michelyn’s favorite) and Helicriss.
Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Robert’s review, if you enjoy Iris perfume or a scent-memory from childhood and where you live. Please indicate if you would like to win Florentina or the discovery kit. Draw closes May 20, 2017
We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
I’ve shared this article a few times on FB over the past two years, but thought I’d share it again as I’m working on a review of a new petrichor-centric perfume. And I LOVE the word “petrichor”!
Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com 12 May, 2017
New Perfume Review: Euphorium Brooklyn Butterfly (Stephen Dirkes) 2017
Like the soft caress of a feather on your cheek, Euphorium Brooklyn’s new eau de parfum Butterfly, lands on the skin as sleekly and weightlessly as the sheerest chiffon scarf, a scent to make you smile and revel in joy.
Since arriving on the scene two years ago, self-taught perfumer Stephen Dirkes has created stunning and unique perfumes (Pétales, Cilice, Suédios, and Chocolatl among others) using only the very finest ingredients; precious oils, tinctures, and absolutes, and the results are a range of scents as interesting and compelling as Brooklyn itself. His studio is based in the Greenpoint neighborhood of northern Brooklyn, and the neighborhood itself was partially the genesis for this newest bright and lively perfume.
As Mr. Dirkes describes it…“Located in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn’s northern most waterfront cradled by the New Town Creek and East River, Euphorium Brooklyn has long been an oasis of decadence in the midst of an industrial wasteland. From early 18th century settlements and the development of 19th century boat building & chemical industries, the waterfront somehow escaped development. In these “wilds” of North Brooklyn, stands of milkweed, grasses, and wildflowers flourished and have remained largely intact until the present.”
“Situated on the migratory path of the Monarch butterfly’s incredible journey from Canada to Mexico and back, the butterflies discovered the rich flora on Greenpoint’s water’s edge for themselves, establishing a marvel of nature with seasonal clouds of butterflies signaling the start of summer in this otherwise grey industrial corner of New York City. Butterflies are sustained by a wide variety of colorful and fragrant nectar flowers and weeds of all types. Most unique is their relationship to the milkweed plant. Highly toxic to most animals, claiming the lives of horses that forge on milkweed, the butterfly is able to utilize the milkweed’s toxins to protect itself. With an ability to safely ingest the toxins and move them to their exoskeleton, the butterflies themselves become toxic to predators to defend themselves and also lay eggs to become larvae on the milkweed plants to protect the next generation. BUTTERFLY Eau de Pafum is based on the fragrant plant life that sustains butterflies and their habitat. Although perhaps a peculiar starting point to develop a fragrance palette, butterflies have done a remarkable job of curating a wide range of fragrant floral, mint, grass, & herbaceous notes for a perfumer to work with.” -Stephen Dirkes
If you’ve never had the opportunity to see a Monarch butterfly migration, it is experiential in the same way as seeing the northern lights for the very first time, stunning, unbelievable and absolutely unforgettable. While growing up in Northern California, one of the “requisite” fourth grade field trips was to go see the monarch butterflies as they over-wintered along the coast. As our school bus trundled down the hill towards foggy Bolinas Bay, we drove past Eucalyptus trees completely blanketed with Monarch butterflies. The sight of hundreds of thousands butterflies covering the trees, is jaw-dropping and at times a bit unsettling in a scary-movie way, especially to a kid.
Opening with a cool arctic blast of mint tempered by the earthy and slightly bitter oakmoss, Butterfly is a scent that is very easy to wear for both men and women, and sometimes “easy” is exactly what you want to reach for in the dog-days of summer.
Butterfly is both cooling and refreshing, slightly reminiscent of the alcohol-stinging slap of a barbershop aftershave, but much richer and complex from the floral notes of lilac and geranium. The oakmoss is ever present and if that’s a note that has heretofore scared you away, in Butterfly it is as skillfully mastered and blended as anything I’ve ever tried.
The laurel adds a slight camphorous vibe, and the brook water (yes you read that right) keeps the whole combination bright, clear, and sparkling, providing that airy and slight tickle that you would imagine feeling if a Monarch butterfly landed on the palm of your hand, its orange and black wings glistening as they slowly open and close, unfolding in a ravishing jewel-like display. Butterfly by Euphorium Brooklyn with its unearthly and ethereal beauty is going right to the top of my full bottle buy list and just may be my go-to fougére for summer 2017.
Notes: Violet, Lilac, Lavender, Geranium, Marigold, Wild Mint, Mountain Laurel, Hyssop, Milkweed, Scarlet Sage, Artemisia, Sweet Clover, Grasses, Moss and Brook Water
Disclosure: Many thanks to Twisted Lily and Euphorium Brooklyn for supplying the sample. Opinions are my own.
Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com 5 May, 2017
New Perfume Review: Liquorice Vetiver EDP, (Sven Pritzkoleit) 2016
One of the newest and most intriguing perfumes to be nominated for an Art and Olfaction award is Sven Pritzkoleit’s Liquorice Vetiver for his SP Parfums, based in northern Germany.
“Home is where the perfume is. That deja-vu of our childhood scents, memories and the deepest parts of our dreams, instincts and soul. It is my hope that since everyone has scent-memory triggers, and ultimately wishes to re-discover happy memories, that my new scents will bring back those memories. Since my early childhood years I have been obsessed by the senses of taste and smell. I studied and became a pharmacist in the family owned apothecary, and for the past 20 years I’ve also studied perfumery by myself, beginning with the raw materials- naturals and synthetics, and reading books by Edmund Roudnitska, Jean-Claude Ellena, Mandy Aftel, and many more. Impressed by the combination of traditional and modern/experimental perfumery, in 2006 I created my first real perfume composition, Pink Patchouli. In the years that followed, I created many other formulas, searching for my own personal signature, always with the focus on the characteristic themes of my scent and science-driven memory. These perfumes ultimately became my “Essential Collection”. Each of my Essential Collection SP Parfums is composed and manufactured by myself with high quality raw materials.” -Sven Pritzkoleit, Perfumer (Transliterated for clarity purposes-RH)
Sven describes Liquorice Vetiver as “Shades of sunlight reflecting through a lovely forest in Autumn”. It definitely has that shadowy and cool vibe, but the shade provided by a large gnarled oak tree at the very edge of a height-of-summer August dry hayfield, You can see and feel the heat shimmering off the newly harvested earth. Smoke and wood and a vetiver that is bone-dry, all sweetened by a photo-realistic licorice accord with a hint of chocolate, as if a small child is running through the newly-baled sillage in bare feet.
The ground cover crackles under the child’s feet, and in a hidden pocket is a piece of black licorice softened by the heat and made sweet by an unwrapped square of chocolate now semi-melted. The licorice and chocolate mingle to create something, at times bitter or sour but also sweet, deep and complex. Together with the dry-as-sin hay bales, and the musty scent of the oak tree in the very near distance, Liquorice Vetiver creates a scent-memory that is nothing short of a wonder to behold. Perhaps the child ends the journey by skipping into an old house shuttered against the heat, and empties the pocket into a highly polished and reflective teak platter in the middle of a kitchen table, the chocolate-licorice amalgam blending with the sleek oiled teakwood of the platter, before running upstairs to wash before lunch and a well needed soporific nap in the August heat. Contemporary vernacular would describe it as “small-child-summer-realness”. Absolutely one of the most interesting perfumes I’ve worn in a very long time. Sillage and longevity are off the charts. If you are a vetiver-lover like me, I suspect you will love Liquorice Vetiver!
Worth noting: The SP Parfum website is primarily in German with some english, and so can be challenging to navigate.
Notes: Patchouli, nagarmotha (papyrus), cistrose (rockrose), vetiver, moss, amber, liquorice, green citrus and ylang-ylang accord, skin-solaire accord: (Ylang ylang, benzoin/styrax, tonka bean extract, musks.)
Disclosure: Many thanks to SP Parfums, Sven Pritzkoleit, and indiescents.com for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own
Congrats to Claire for winning the A/O award for best Artisan Perfume! Well deserved!
Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com, 28 April 2017
New Perfume Review: Sixteen92 Fragrances Bruise Violet Extrait de Parfum (Claire Baxter) 2016+ Naughty Bo Peep Draw
When Luca Turin notices and speaks highly of a new virtually unknown perfume house, and that same perfumer goes on to be nominated for a 2017 Art & Olfaction Award I, like the great eye of Sauron, swing about and focus my perfume-sniffing laser beam on finding out more!
Based in Dallas Texas, and named for the date of the Salem Witch Trials, Sixteen92 is the brainchild of Claire Baxter, self-described CEO and Head Witch, introvert, secret lover of race cars, gardening, and ‘90s video games. In her early 30’s Claire is passionate about singing opera, fragrance, and the scientific nuances that connect scent with memory. Her glorious scents, based on legends, myths and fairy tales, are for the most part vegan, and completely non-animal tested…
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Only the perect scent of Carnal Flower is calming my jangled “pre-existing condition” heart.
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