Originally Published On http://www.cafleurebon.com 21 February, 2018
I keep waiting for a scent created by Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz that I WON’T like, but it just never happens. 2017 saw the premiere of her new range called “Flowers for Men” and the first in the series Il Marinaio Da Capri (The Sailor From Capri) was a top-notch honeysuckle perfume which was one of my favorite releases for the year. Now with DSH Perfumes Lilas de Minuit, Dawn revisits lilac, this time as a dark-as-night chypre which will delight both men and women alike. Inspired by Coty’s classic and first-of-its-kind 1917 Chypre, the soon to be released DSH Perfumes Lilas de Minuit is one of three new Lunar inspired scents being introduced in the DSH canon on the 28th of this month.
Since the beginning of time the moon has fascinated, compelled and drawn humankind to its inherent mystery and beguiling beauty. What is it about this “giant space orb” that brings us out into the dark to sing, howl, dance, celebrate, pray, venerate, and “act like lunatics?” In creating a perfume to honor the moon at midnight when it is at times both brightest and darkest, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz perfectly explores this duality by bringing forth a fragrance that feels almost as unknowable as the moon, yet also familiar in a way that connects to the deepest well of our psyche. DSH Perfumes Lilas de Minuit is a fragrance that through its development seems to follow the various aspects of the moon itself.
Opening with a bright and spicy citrus and pepper, the scent is at once new and fresh as the new moon; speaking to new beginnings, plans yet to be made, and pregnant possibility. Like the moon as it journeys towards its zenith, the oakmoss lends its earthy and fusty notes, made lighter by the lilac honoring once again the juxtaposition of dark and light. Incense introduces a spiritual aspect as if to carry prayers and meditations up to the black-as-onyx sky above.
As the moon unfolds, so does Lilas de Minuit, bringing forth the burgeoning floralcy of rose, ylang, and jasmine mixed with the powdery dry champaca. Through it all the oakmoss shines as bright as moonbeams in a wooded glen. The drydown introduces styrax, musk and civet darkening the scent towards something more feral and lusty. If you’re not a civet fan, fear not as this civet is a mere wisp, a passing thought to add depth and emotion; the moon is now waning towards its final light before the darkness of the new moon and the cycle starts once again.
Under the gentle and silver lumination of the moon at midnight is when magic happens, so it should come as no surprise that in Dawn Hurwitz’s eminently capable hands, DSH Perfumes Lilas de Minuit is nothing short of bottled magic, a scented wonder of wonders. A scent made for howling and dancing, or just sitting quietly staring at the moon through a cold winter window.
Notes: bergamot, pepper, cassis bud, lilac, champaca, grandiflora jasmine, Bulgarian rose absolute, orris, ylang ylang, clove bud, cinnamon, incense, labdanum, styrax, patchouli, oakmoss, civet, musk
Disclosure: Thank you SO much to Dawn for supplying my sample. The opinions are my own.
–Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor
Thanks to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and DSH Perfumes, http://www.cafleurebon.com has 1 avant premier 10 ml voile de parfum of DSH Perfumes Lilas de Minuit ( the three moon perfumes are launching February 28 to coincide with a rare Waxing Gibbous moon which rises between noon and midnight) for one registered reader anywhere in the world so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible go to http://www.cafleurebon.com and please let us know what appeals to you about Roberts’ review, where you live and do you feel drawn to the moon or the sun. Draw closes on February 25, 2018
We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.