Solstice Scents: After The Rain edp (2017)

 

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Originally published on  www.cafleurebon.com   30 May, 2017

 

What I know to be true is this: when Angela St. John of Solstice Scents announces the release of a new group of perfumed offerings her scented items often sell out in no time at all. So it should come as no surprise that her new Eau De Parfum After The Rain, is destined to be no exception.

When “The Email” arrives from Solstice Scents announcing on what day and time Angela’s new creations will be available, her multitude of fans (myself included) will be waiting with baited breath over our computers, laptops, tablets, and phones. With our typing fingers at the ready, we count down the seconds until the metaphorical “opening bell” rings. Then like a Black Friday sale we rush to fill our online shopping baskets and press the “buy now” button. Often, lingering too long over a decision might just lead to disappointment. But fear not, of course there will be more product available eventually, but Angela’s perfumes and lotions are so wonderful that desire always drives a classic fragrance “lemming-like” rush to be one of the very first to try them. Yes, her perfumes really are that good and After the Rain is another example of her Olfactive Wizardry.

The story of After The Rain is of a small cottage sitting in a floral-strewn glen in the deep green woods of spring. After raining all night, the storm has abated and the sun is coming up over the trees with it’s crystal sharp light against a vivid cerulean sky, and the warming rays are touching the foliage and blooms in the glen, burning off the mist of the night. Everything sparkles in the sun: a handful of precious gems strewn through and over the buds and fronds.

You lay in your warm bed with the rain’s fresh scent and coolness surrounding you, and you are drawn to the open window by the intoxicating scent of wet velvet happiness. Taking a deep and easy breath, the purpled flowers perfume of nature surround you. Lilac, violets, blue lotus, and the pale wisteria that covers the trellis next to the dutch-door below. The flowers and plants that have seemingly sprung up overnight are almost TOO beautiful and would be overwhelming but for the faint integrated, smooth and comfortable earthbound notes, not of the petrichor-perfumed newly wet ground but what comes AFTER that smell, the wood-splintered and slightly feral aroma of loamy soil allowed to drink its fill at last.

After The Rain is exactly this; a haunting, unadulterated, and pure breeze-caressed romance. A Memento-mori to the sweet ache and transient nature of love lost and then found again. New beginnings. Like burying your nose in a flowering shrub still covered in drops of water that wet your cheek and eyelashes, lightly scented with that feeling of all-encompassing freshness. An olfactive sigh of happiness, contentedness, and possibly a touch of nostalgia and regret.

Notes: Lilac, purple wisteria, blue lotus absolute, rain, new green leaves, wild violets, soil, clary sage and more.

Disclosure: The perfume and opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Pryn Parfum : Lolita edp concentrée

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Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com  29 May, 2017

 

Lovers of fresh, beautiful florals and classic French perfumes are going to adore Pryn Parfum’s recent release, Lolita.

Prin Lomros, a very gifted perfumer from Thailand, moved into the spotlight this year for receiving a finalist nomination in the 2017 Art & Olfaction Awards Artisan category for his stunning spicy rose “floriental” Rosuerrier, inspired by Joan Of Arc. Prin is based in Bangkok (a.k.a The Big Mango) Thailand.

Pryn Parfum currently has fifteen scents available-thirteen of which are available on the Pryn website, and two bespoke exclusives available only in Bangkok boutiques. The perfumes are all produced as a “Parfum Intense concentration” which is halfway between an edp and an extrait. As well as perfumes, Pryn offers a range of scented candles and scented Himalayan crystals for use in aroma diffusers.

“I graduated with a master’s degree in Film study and no background in perfumery. The only thing I knew is that I loved scent and being a perfume collector! I had taken basic chemistry in high school and this helped me understand perfume a lot. My own personal perfume story started at the Cannes film festival, and while there I had a chance to visit Grasse, long considered to be the perfume capitol of France? It occurred to me that although I love to express my stories via film the method can be too clichéd, people had made films for decades and I believed there’s nothing new in film, so I needed a different method that allowed me to express my stories. That’s how my journey began. I learned simple perfumery methods in a classroom in Grasse, and returned to Thailand to work in the perfume industry with some great mentors. All the rest is self-taught.

My perfumes are the story of places, experiences, culture, art, films, and scents of my journey. I consider perfume within the context of storytelling; every note, every element must be chosen wisely to communicate the scenery and how the story goes and how the story ends. From film I learned this: The greatest film makers must be able to make films in any genre. So for my debut I created five scents in five different styles/genres to introduce myself as a perfumer. And I am so thrilled to share my olfactory stories to perfume lovers everywhere.” –Prin Lomros

You’ll hear more about Prin Lomros’ award-nominated Rosuerrier in a future review, but right now I’d like to introduce you to a sexy little number hiding in Pryn Parfum’s back-catalog. Her name is Lolita, and like her Vladimir Nabokov 1955 novels’ namesake, she is a young girl ready to take the step into the power of her own womanhood and sexuality. “Lolita. The journey through transformation from a girl to a woman. Celebrating her love, beauty and sexuality of youth. Love; delights of dessert, ripe fresh fruits. Beauty; sweet and sensual flowers in the garden. Sexuality; seducing musk and amber.”

Not unlike the Lolita of the book, Lolita the parfum Intense begins with innocence and flirtation, light and bright osmanthus mixed with flirty and girlishly sweet honeysuckle which quickly steps back for the candy creaminess of the crème brûlée and tart astringency of lemon curd. Both notes add a level of sweetness that COULD make your teeth ache and send the perfume tumbling into gourmand territory, yet it never goes that far. Rather it skims the very edge of diabetic coma, perfectly happy to just dip its’ blood-red lacquered toenail in while simultaneously and lasciviously licking a heart shaped lollipop.

All the while the musk keeps everything grounded soundly in the slightly carnal and suggestive. But as they say, youth is fleeting and soon enough Lolita veers solidly into classic french perfume style as the trés sophisticated florals of rose, jasmine, and a soupçon of carnation slip in. The perfume at this point feels extremely grown-up, akin to Guerlains classic L’Heure Bleue, or a Dior worn by a “mature-for-her-age” 20-something. Still flirty, but with an undercurrent that hints at a naughty and predatory edge. And there it stays for hours, a gorgeous grown-up vintage-style aroma that’ll knock your socks (and maybe your undergarments) off. Notes: Honeysuckle, Osmanthus, Musk, Crème Brûlée, Lemon Curd, Neroli, Rose Otto, Nectarine, Egyptian Jasmine, Sweet Pea, Carnation and Amber.

Disclosure: Many thanks to Pryn Parfum and Prin Lomros for supplying the sample. Opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to Pryn Parfum, we have a worldwide draw of three individual prizes for three people of a 15 ml. travel sized Lolita parfum, and two “Discovery Sets” of the entire line (3 ml.x 7, Jardin d’iris, Le Mimosa, Hikari, Amalfi, Taiga, Turkish Leather, Rosuerrier). Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review of Lolita, which fragrance from Pryn Parfums appeals to you, which of the three prizes you would like to win i.e, The Discovery Set or the 15 ml Lolita and where you live. Draw closes 6/2/2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

New Andy Tauer: L’Eau edp (2017)

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Ever since 2014, when Andy Tauer released Cologne de Magrheb, I have been patiently waiting for a new riff on the time honored classic. I was thrilled and delighted to learn of his new release L’Eau (truth to be told I was actually quivering with anticipation when I opened the box).

I often feel that classic colognes get a bit shortchanged in the fragrance community in favor of darker and deeper scents rife with incense, patchouli, and the ever ubiquitous oudh. Colognes seem to be thought of as “lesser” compositions, almost like a poor relation, something not to be taken too seriously, but just for “fun”.

For me nothing could be further from the truth. In the hands of a master perfumer like Andy Tauer, a bright and fizzy Eau De Cologne-style perfume done extremely well, can lift my mood and vanquish the dark clouds on any gloomy day, and make a sunny day that much better. Think of all the wonderful colognes from the bigger houses, Chanel, Guerlain, Dior, or Caron for example. The bite of the citrus, the uplifting florals, and the fresh air supplied from a great clean musk? Yes please! I love them all. Andy Tauer’s L’Eau takes the very best aspects of fine cologne and interprets them as an Eau de Parfum in a classic Tauer way, with his signature deep and well rounded “Tauerade” vibe and over-the-top longevity. Andy Tauer is a perfumer who is never afraid to push the envelope, he has a signature style and Tauer Perfumes offers the rare combination of outstanding scents at reasonable prices.

Inspired by the scent of a blooming lemon tree on Mr. Tauers’ Zurich veranda, L’Eau is a beautiful and uplifting unisex perfume that manages to deconstruct a lemon tree from its dew-kissed blossoms down to its cool and dark hidden roots. It also happens to be one of the greatest blind buys I’ve made in a very long time.

Opening with the sharp and slightly bitter whip-crack sting of fresh lemon and bergamot and softened by the sweet floral notes of lemon blossom and the slight fusty scent of iris, this fresh-as-springtime scent is as cooling and mellow as a warm zephyr whispering against your skin and ruffling your hair. The wood notes bring you into the stems and stalks of the lemon tree, right into the trunk and further down into the loamy soil with its’ ambergris/earthy, primordial and slightly metallic smell. This is a bottle I would, and will reach for at the end of a sunny day-off spent lying in the sun, then meandering through the house in a languorous stupor from the heat of the day, and looking forward to a cooling, cleansing, and refreshing shower. Fresh out of the bath, in sparkling clean clothes slightly redolent of laundry powder and sunlight, I will give myself some generous lashings of L’Eau with its’ bright and revivifying sweet citrus blast, and step out into a warm summers’ night. On second thought, why wait? I think I’ll just go re-apply right now. Notes: Bergamot, lemon, orange oil, lemon blossom, iris, musk, woods, ambergris

Disclosure: The perfume is my personal bottle and the opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to Twisted Lily, we have 3 samples of L’Eau for 3 winners in the USA. Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review, and your favorite cologne or Tauer Perfume. Draw closes 5/25/2017

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon and @twistedlily360

You must be registered to win. We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Look what I found…..

 

The biggest surprise out of an auction “lot” I bought the othe day, is this bottle! (Marked #2)

At first I thought it might be a second smaller Prince Matchiabelli, but it turns out to be a vintage Canadian company called Delager. They used to make these really sweet foil-wrapped bath cubes with lovely floral illustrations, about the size of a chocolate. I used to give them to my mom for Mother’s Day when I was a kid. Do you remember them? They were at every drugstore and Five and Dime.

This perfume that they made is called “Royal Dove”, and it is freaking GORGEOUS!

Like a drugstore riff on a Guerlain; 1/2 way between L’Instant and L’Heure Bleue. Vintage skanky opening and a stunning semi-sweet drydown! Lasts a really long time. Still lots on ebay for under $20.

I’m SO impressed. Wow. Just….. wow!😍

Two Perfumes By Kyse (Terri Bozzo) 2016/2017

 

 

Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com, 20 May 2017

New Perfume Review: Kyse Perfumes Terreno Dolce and Bois de Santal et Terre (Terri Bozzo) 2017+ All-Weather Gourmand Fragrance Draw

May 20, 2017

Terri Bozzo (the 120th American perfumer featured in CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery series) initially burst onto the indie perfume scene four years ago on Facebook with a fantastic gourmand called Sucre Et Fleurs and people took notice. Her small California home-based company, (then called Perfumes by Terri) became an instant hit with an almost cult-like status. After the debut and success of Sucre Et Fleurs in 2014, new scents with a gourmand flair followed and Terri rebranded her perfumes as Kyse Perfumes (Kyse, pronounced like “rice” is a combination of her two sons names, Kyle and Sean). Terri’s new Eau De Parfums for 2017 are definitely worth exploring. There are two scents in the line that I find particularly noteworthy and well-suited during the crazy weather that has half the country melting under a heatwave while the rest of us are still reaching for our sweaters are woody and fresh, with Terri’s signature gourmand vibe that will work well whatever the temperature may be.

Terreno Dolce (Sweet earth) is best described as a woody gourmand chypre. Terreno Dolce was the first Kyse Perfumes I tried, and has olfactive picnic of the senses written all over it! Opening with a blast of fresh cedar overlaid by brown sugar, the scent brings to mind cedar planks used for grilling, the vetiver and moss notes keep it earthy and grounded while the brown sugar sweetens, enhances, and delights! This combination of fresh woody and earthy scents mixed with sweet might seem odd to you at first but it works exceedingly well. This is indeed a sweet earth scent, and one that you would reach for often. The perfect descriptor would be “addictive”. Notes: Vetiver, earthy notes, oakmoss, immortelle, woody notes and brown sugar

Bois de Santal et Terre (Sandalwood and Earth) is the most contemplative of the perfumes, the crystal clear bright day right after the storm. It is quiet and haunting, and allows you to slow down the endless machinations of a busy mind and be totally present. Yes it has its gourmand facets, but it is the sandalwood and wheat that bring shimmering beauty and grace to this scent. I wore it right before bedtime, and it seriously helped to put me in the zone, allowing for a deep and restful night’s sleep. The boletus (mushroom) and earthy notes keep it well-grounded with an extraordinary feeling of zen meditation. It is the sigh of relief and most inward-seeking of the two, more of a skin-scent, but one that you will be happy to keep to yourself and those who you want to be close to. Notes: Sandalwood, cedar, wheat, boletus edulis, cacao and earthy notes.

Many Thanks to Kyse Perfumes for the samples. Opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor

–Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief who lives in NYC where it was 90 degrees yesterday and 60 degrees today.

Thanks to Kyse Perfumes we have a draw for a registered reader in the USA or Canada for a 30ml bottle of your choice Bois de Santal et Terre OR Terreno Dolce Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s reviews, which you would choose should you win, if you enjoy perfumes with a gourmand vibe, and where you live. Draw closes 5/23/2017

follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @fragrantwanderer and @terribozzo

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

New Perfume Review: Florentina edp, Sylvaine Delacourte 2016

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Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com    19 May, 2017

 

New Perfume Review: Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina (Sylvaine Delacourte) 2016 + Neo-Classicism Draw

May 17, 2017

 

 

Late last autumn, fragrance lovers were delighted to discover the launch of a new range of five perfumes centered around musk. They were created by industry superstar Sylvaine Delacourte whom Master Perfumer (and recipient of the prestigious Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres) Maurice Roucel described as “One of the best creative directors I have ever worked with…”(in his interview with our Editor-in-Chief, Michelyn Camen). All the fragrances were beautiful but I was especially drawn to Florentina, a gorgeous tribute to a scent memory from Sylvaine’s childhood.

Before creating her own line, Mme. Delacourte was highly regarded for her work as the Director Of Fragrance Evaluation and Development with the venerable Parisian Maison Guerlain (alongside Jean-Paul Guerlain and Thierry Wasser), and had a crucial role in bringing us some of the most iconic perfumes of the past ten years, to wit; Insolence (and flankers), Acqua Allegoria Figue-Iris, L’Instant Magic, Quand Vient La Pluie, Guerlain Homme, and so many others.
George Lawrence Bulleid – At the Fountain©

All of the five new perfumes released in the new collection are wonderful, but Florentina, a stunning powdery iris-musk, was the one that absolutely swept me off my feet.
Girl with Laurel Headband. George Lawrence Bulleid (English,1858-1933)

Iris Florentina is a sub-species of iris that grows in the countryside surrounding Florence Italy, and its form is celebrated all around Florence with a Fleur-De-Lys style symbol on the city flag and buildings among others. The symbol has been in existence since Florence was founded in 59 BC by the Roman Empire. To honor the Roman goddess Flora, the new city was named after both its founder Florinus da Cellino, and the word Florentia (Latin for flowering).
George Lawrence Bulleid – Before the Bath

Florentina is Mme. Delacourte’s fragrant tribute to the scent of baby powder from her youth in northern France, and a stunning tribute it is. The idea of scent-memory has always been fascinating to me, that ability of certain scents to transport one back in time so throughly. Recently I asked Sylvaine about her own childhood scent-memories which provide the basis of this fantastic perfume:“Perfume is the most intense form of memory. I grew up in the north of France, near Lille, and Florentina is the result of my personal memories that I had from seven years of age and beyond. The face powder of my mother, the iris smell, the exquisite smell of the violet that my father gave me each week when it was the season, the smell of almond blended with vanilla from the pancakes cooked by my grandmother.
Robert’s Borotalco talcum Vintage ad

To provide tension to the fragrance, I chose vetiver which has a hazelnut smell, in honor of a hazelnut tree which was in our garden. The carnation note I think came from Youth Dew, my mothers’ perfume of choice. Then the smell of babies talcum powder is also important for me, it is the starting point of this creation. I love all the smells of talc, especially the Robert’s Borotalco talcum that comes from Italy.” (Note: Roberts Borotalco is still widely available online.) -Sylvaine Delacourte
Carina by George Lawrence Bulleid

All of these memories coalesce into a singular perfume that is beautifully blended using the finest ingredients, and we are gifted with a floral and Iris scent with touches of gourmand and a terrific soft musk base. The opening is a bright and fluffy almond note that is reminiscent of opening the door to a favorite bakery or patisserie, the steamy warm air redolent of sweet baking almond biscuits. The musk in the background adds the “fluffy” feeling, freshened by the heliotrope, iris, and violet.
George Lawrence Bulleid A Moment’s Rest

The orange blossom lends an orange flower water baking note while the carnation is merely alluded to but present none the less; the vetiver is also amplified which surrounds the scent with the freshness of a garden on a beautiful afternoon. This is a very easy scent to wear for both women and men alike, and it wears very well both in cold weather and warm. When I first tried Florentina last November, I remember it as a perfect perfume for the holidays, and now in warmer weather the florals are more prominent, making it extremely accessible as a summer scent.

Notes: Cloves, benzoin, bergamot, iris, lavender, violet, carnation, vetiver, almond, orange blossom, vanilla, white musk, and heliotrope.

Disclosure: Many thanks to Sylvaine Delacourte for supplying the sample. The opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Sr. Contributor
George Lawrence Bulleid Tutt’Art@ Girl With a Lute

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief I used the art of George Bulleid, a Victorian painter best known for his classical style to convey Mme. Delacourte’s fragrances.

Editor’s Note: I named Sylvaine Delacourte’s new House as the recipient of CaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2016-Michelyn
Thanks to the generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte, we have a 100 ml. Bottle of Florentina for one registered reader In the EU, USA, and Canada
or if you would like the Musc discovery kit that includes Dovana, Florentina, Smerlado, Lilyang (Michelyn’s favorite) and Helicriss.

Please be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you thought of Robert’s review, if you enjoy Iris perfume or a scent-memory from childhood and where you live. Please indicate if you would like to win Florentina or the discovery kit. Draw closes May 20, 2017

We announce the winners only on our website and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Euphorium Brooklyn: Butterfly edp (2017)

Originally published on http://www.cafleurebon.com  12 May, 2017

New Perfume Review: Euphorium Brooklyn Butterfly (Stephen Dirkes) 2017

Like the soft caress of a feather on your cheek, Euphorium Brooklyn’s new eau de parfum Butterfly, lands on the skin as sleekly and weightlessly as the sheerest chiffon scarf, a scent to make you smile and revel in joy.

Since arriving on the scene two years ago, self-taught perfumer Stephen Dirkes has created stunning and unique perfumes (Pétales, Cilice, Suédios, and Chocolatl among others) using only the very finest ingredients; precious oils, tinctures, and absolutes, and the results are a range of scents as interesting and compelling as Brooklyn itself. His studio is based in the Greenpoint neighborhood of northern Brooklyn, and the neighborhood itself was partially the genesis for this newest bright and lively perfume.

As Mr. Dirkes describes it…“Located in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn’s northern most waterfront cradled by the New Town Creek and East River, Euphorium Brooklyn has long been an oasis of decadence in the midst of an industrial wasteland. From early 18th century settlements and the development of 19th century boat building & chemical industries, the waterfront somehow escaped development. In these “wilds” of North Brooklyn, stands of milkweed, grasses, and wildflowers flourished and have remained largely intact until the present.”

“Situated on the migratory path of the Monarch butterfly’s incredible journey from Canada to Mexico and back, the butterflies discovered the rich flora on Greenpoint’s water’s edge for themselves, establishing a marvel of nature with seasonal clouds of butterflies signaling the start of summer in this otherwise grey industrial corner of New York City. Butterflies are sustained by a wide variety of colorful and fragrant nectar flowers and weeds of all types. Most unique is their relationship to the milkweed plant. Highly toxic to most animals, claiming the lives of horses that forge on milkweed, the butterfly is able to utilize the milkweed’s toxins to protect itself. With an ability to safely ingest the toxins and move them to their exoskeleton, the butterflies themselves become toxic to predators to defend themselves and also lay eggs to become larvae on the milkweed plants to protect the next generation. BUTTERFLY Eau de Pafum is based on the fragrant plant life that sustains butterflies and their habitat. Although perhaps a peculiar starting point to develop a fragrance palette, butterflies have done a remarkable job of curating a wide range of fragrant floral, mint, grass, & herbaceous notes for a perfumer to work with.” -Stephen Dirkes

If you’ve never had the opportunity to see a Monarch butterfly migration, it is experiential in the same way as seeing the northern lights for the very first time, stunning, unbelievable and absolutely unforgettable. While growing up in Northern California, one of the “requisite” fourth grade field trips was to go see the monarch butterflies as they over-wintered along the coast. As our school bus trundled down the hill towards foggy Bolinas Bay, we drove past Eucalyptus trees completely blanketed with Monarch butterflies. The sight of hundreds of thousands butterflies covering the trees, is jaw-dropping and at times a bit unsettling in a scary-movie way, especially to a kid.

Opening with a cool arctic blast of mint tempered by the earthy and slightly bitter oakmoss, Butterfly is a scent that is very easy to wear for both men and women, and sometimes “easy” is exactly what you want to reach for in the dog-days of summer.

Butterfly is both cooling and refreshing, slightly reminiscent of the alcohol-stinging slap of a barbershop aftershave, but much richer and complex from the floral notes of lilac and geranium. The oakmoss is ever present and if that’s a note that has heretofore scared you away, in Butterfly it is as skillfully mastered and blended as anything I’ve ever tried.

The laurel adds a slight camphorous vibe, and the brook water (yes you read that right) keeps the whole combination bright, clear, and sparkling, providing that airy and slight tickle that you would imagine feeling if a Monarch butterfly landed on the palm of your hand, its orange and black wings glistening as they slowly open and close, unfolding in a ravishing jewel-like display. Butterfly by Euphorium Brooklyn with its unearthly and ethereal beauty is going right to the top of my full bottle buy list and just may be my go-to fougére for summer 2017.

Notes: Violet, Lilac, Lavender, Geranium, Marigold, Wild Mint, Mountain Laurel, Hyssop, Milkweed, Scarlet Sage, Artemisia, Sweet Clover, Grasses, Moss and Brook Water

Disclosure: Many thanks to Twisted Lily and Euphorium Brooklyn for supplying the sample. Opinions are my own.